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For these Sri Lankans, whose lives have been coloured by war and tsunami, the longing is understandable.

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Braver diners should ask for the chilli and coconut condiment pol sambol. So the next morning we sped up the coast in a small launch with captain Raj, bouncing through the chop on our way to Pigeon Island to see octopus and shark.

The deserted white-sand beach stretched for miles, deep palm groves right up to the surf.

Our toothy tuk-tuk driver, Suresh, greeted us enthusiastically. Suresh's three-wheeler protested at the steep climb.

At last we reached the venerated Koneswaram temple, perched on a cliff-top 400ft above the waves and home to the lingam – a Hindu holy phallus.

Her husband was a businessman in the northern Tamil city of Jaffna, who died in the war – she makes a trigger shape with her hand not holding the ladle.